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There are a number of so-called dog trackers on the market but not all are what they seem. Before buying one, ask yourself what you want the tracker to do and check that it is fit for everyday use for at least one year, or you could make an expensive mistake.

The word ‘tracker’ has become a generic for all manner of location devices. If you want to track your dog’s walks; to know where they are at all times; to set safety zones and have the best chance of recovery when they are lost – you need live GPS tracking

This sounds obvious but many devices just take basic technology and put it in a plastic box with little thought to where and how it is going to be used.
As a basic minimum make sure the tracker

• – has a rugged outer shell
• – will survive undergrowth, bushes, digging, mud, rain, swimming and play
• – is fully waterproof not water-resistant
• – is small enough and light enough for your dog not to notice it
• – has a security collar to prevent it being removed

There are lots of products out there that are called ‘trackers’ but are in fact activity monitors or data loggers, that record what your dog is doing, but will not show you their current location.

To keep your dog safe you need a tracker with – ‘live GPS tracking’ that automatically shows where your dog is at least every thirty seconds

• – satellite and street view maps on your mobile
• – with direction, distance, speed and time so you can see where they are and where they are going
• – viewcam and compass directions for when it is dark or the terrain is difficult to follow
• – geofences or safety zones with audible alerts to tell you immediately when they have strayed
• – a SIM that can be ‘tuned’ to find the strongest signal in your area with a roaming facility for areas of poor reception.

When buying a tracker it makes sense to get one that can do more than just show you a location, or you could end up putting it in a drawer after a few days and never using it again.

Look out for these extra app features

• – track a walk with details of route taken, distance and speed. Very useful for monitoring exercise ….. and essential for keeping an eye on dog walkers!
• – daily activity goals and performance. The ‘fitbit for dogs’ idea available now with the most sophisticated trackers on the market.
• – health and wellbeing advice for your dog to help you keep them in shape. Look for recommended ideal weight, exercise and nutrition advice based on your dog’s lifestyle.
• – a Roaming Sim option to ensure you get the best possible signal wherever you are
• – a Speed Track option to increase data to every 10 seconds for the most accurate tracking of fast running dogs

If you are concerned about theft, you need a security collar to prevent someone simply taking the tracker off before they walk away with your dog.

The tracker you buy should offer

• – a no quibble warranty of at least 12 months
• – UK customer services for advice, repair and maintenance
• – 30 day money back guarantee
• – free technology upgrades
• – options and accessories to suit your dog and your needs

Based on feedback from disappointed customers and on our own experience, we advise against

– overseas imports with no UK based support

– lightweight devices that would be unlikely to survive indoors let alone in the real world of dogs

– water resistant devices

– requested location trackers that only give you a one-time fix

– single function devices with basic apps

– supposed SIM free agreements that bury the cost in the price of the tracker and make it hard to find out what the real usage costs are

– products that hide their technical specifications and promise the earth for free – with technology the best costs more

– waterproof to IP/67
this means the tracker will be fully waterproof in fresh water up to Im deep. Water inside a tracker
will destroy the electronics. Water resistant is useless
– dog proof
sadly nothing is completely dog proof, but if you treat a tracker like a mobile phone and it has arugged outer shell, you will get many months effective use
– live GPS tracking
live trackers send data to a server and onwards to your mobile phone for continuous location and
route tracking. The term is often wrongly used for trackers that only send data when asked to do so.
This is correctly called requested location or data logging
– lightweight
some trackers come in flimsy cases, have tiny batteries and a few components. It is often why they
are so light! If you have a miniature or toy dog you will need a very small tracker… but you will not
get the performance you would expect with a more robust, high spec device. Few dogs are remotely
concerned about the weight of a tracker – their owners are though!
– activity monitor
live trackers can record movement throughout the day to give precise details of distance, speed and
time plotted onto maps. The data is saved to your mobile phone and can be reviewed at will. In
addition you can set goals and monitor performance much as you would do with a personal fitness
monitor.
– unlimited range
A good tracker will give you national network coverage. For overseas use check to see whether the
SIM will work abroad
– viewcam directions
Dog Tracker Nano uses your mobile’s camera to guide you to your dog. Once activated and help
upright, the phone will help you find your dog in the dark
– powerful battery
all manner of battery types are used in trackers. Look out for at least 1000mAh Lithium Ion
rechargeable for power and long life
– powerful antenna
all trackers rely on a strong satellite signal and a good network connection. Small antenna squeezed
into small boxes struggle to get either. Look for the largest possible tuned antenna. Nano has an
external 18mm antenna for the best possible signal
– virtual safety zone / geofence
an electronic boundary set on your mobile, satellite and/or streetview map with alerts when your dog
crosses the perimeter

We make no apology for being obsessed about quality, suitability, performance and service. We are not the cheapest tracker available nor will we ever be… but we believe we are the best product.

Everything we recommend in ‘how to choose the right tracker for your dog’ comes as standard with Dog Tracker Nano. No other tracker comes close

We recommend you first look at our video guides and read the Quick Start Guide. Keep the QSG with you until you are familiar with the basics. Later you can review the app tutorial for a detailed explanation of the features.

If you encounter operating issues please check the device and app FAQs. If all else fails contact customer services on 01442 877796 Mon – Fri 09.00 – 17.00. You can use the Contact Us panel to email a question or request a call back

Most dogs do not run away just once in their lifetime, unless the experience was very traumatic and they are too scared to do it again. It is a good idea to fit a GPS tracking collar to ensure the next time your dog goes astray you can find them quickly on your mobile phone, BEFORE they are lost.

If they were not wearing a Nano when they went missing, here are some useful tips to help you find them quickly

Dogs run away for many reasons, but most often in response to sudden and unexpected events that frighten them; out of curiosity; if they spot something new; from boredom or loneliness; to answer sexual urges if they have not been neutered or if they are in a new location and are looking for familiar surroundings

Most dogs are recovered within a two mile radius, as even the largest and most agile will not run for a long time in a straight line.

Where your dog goes will depend on personality, but as a rule of thumb an outgoing dog will be looking for other dogs and for other humans who are friendly and likely to give comfort, food and shelter. Gardens and public parks will be likely places to look. A shy or older dog which is not so trusting will hide in familiar places or in bushes and under cars.

Ideally get the help of others to search nearby while you stay still and call out in a normal voice. If someone else searches with another friendly dog on the lead, even better. Dogs are social creatures and will be attracted to the other dog.

A dog that is panicked, scared or worried about being told off is less likely to return. Bring along your dog’s favourite toy, or another noise that makes them come running. Dogs can hear sounds from very far away and may come if they hear a comforting sound. Shaking a treat bag or something else a dog knows means food, can help too.

If you do see your dog, do not chase them. They may become frightened or playful and run away. Instead, coax the dog toward you with toys or your dog companion, and by talking in a soft voice the way you would to a young child.

You may think your dog is lost well before they do, especially if they can hear you calling. They may not return simply because they don’t want to or don’t think they are lost. If you shout too long and too loud you may scare them into running further away. Try to stay calm and call or preferably whistle from one place.

A lost dog will often retrace their steps back to where they were last with you. Try to do this from where you last saw your dog to where you started your journey – your car is ideal. If you lost your dog on a familiar walk try to go to favourite places along the way, where your dog may wait for you.

If you have no success in the first few minutes then get the help of friends and family to go to likely places such as your house, a favourite pub or café, a friend’s house especially where there is a playmate. Someone should remain in the immediate area for a good while and carry out a thorough search. Your runaway dog is likely to go to other dogs, so always ask other dog owners in the area if they have seen your dog rather than walkers on their own.

If your dog is found and has a microchip fitted you can be re-united quickly, providing your contact details are up to date and your microchip database provider can easily contact you. Petlog customers can update their details by calling Petlog on 0844 4633 999.

If your dog was wearing their collar/tag displaying your telephone numbers, make sure that if anyone rings these numbers someone is available to answer them and ensure you keep your mobile phone with you at all times.

DogLost, the UK’s premier lost dog organisation can help you find your dog through their online services and volunteer network. DogLost will send out alerts in your area with their automated poster service and will engage their teams of volunteers and helpers to look for your dog. Both Petlog and DogLost have resources on their websites to offer you further advice and support via http://www.petlog.org.uk/ive-lost-a-pet/ and http://www.doglost.co.uk.

If after a good while searching you have had no success, it could be time to see if your dog has been handed in. Remember it may be some time before your dog is handed in and you may need to make calls after 24 hours.

There are a number of Facebook sites and Twitter accounts where you can search for lost dogs in your area. Contact them about your dog, send them quality pictures and details of where and when they went astray.

You can also contact local radio stations to see if they have lost pet bulletins or can post your details on their website/Twitter/Facebook accounts. Ask your friends to share your post with their friends and contacts.

Use a good quality photo and describe your dog as an average person would recognise them. Include identifying information such as collar, dog tags and distinguishing features like scars or unusual colouration. A good example LOST: (Dog’s Name) a dark brown dog with white face and paws, SPAYED female; got loose from garden on xx/xx/xxxx Location where lost at around 4 pm. Wearing a black collar with tag. Family pet. REWARD. Call xxxxx xxx xxx

You can also use these templates:

http://www.lostdogs-scotland.org.uk/poster-templates

http://animalhealings.com/missing-pet-poster.html

http://office.microsoft.com/en-us/templates/lost-pet-flyer-TC102805815.aspx

If you have found a lost dog, first check whether the pet has an identification tag with contact details. If it does, try contacting the owner. If not, take the lost dog straight to a local vet, police station, local animal centre or contact your local animal warden. This will be the quickest and easiest way to find the owner. They will be able to scan the pet for a microchip number and contact the registered owners through Petlog.

“The Environment Protection Act 1990 requires the finder of a stray dog to return the dog to its owner, or contact the local authority (dog warden service) to report it and have it collected, or to take the dog to the police station nearest to where the dog was found. Remember that it is illegal to take a found dog into your home without reporting it to the police first.

Microchipping is a simple safe and quick procedure. It can make all the difference in being reunited with your dog should they go astray. Once your dog is microchipped, you and your pet’s details are stored in a microchip database along with the microchip’s unique 15 digit code.

When a missing dog is found, an animal professional (for example a vet or dog warden) will scan the dog revealing the microchip’s unique 15 digit code, and contact the microchip database your dog is registered with. The customer care staff will perform some security checks before releasing your contact details to the animal professional – so that your dog can be reunited with you. For more information tap here

Microchipping is compulsory for all dogs in England and Wales.

It is a common misunderstanding that microchips can track dogs and can give details of their current location. They cannot. To do this you must fit a specially designed GPS tracker linked to your smart phone or PC. You cannot call Petlog and ask them where your dog is. They have no way of knowing.

You and your dog are most at risk in unfamiliar places. Always take extra precaution when away from home and remember to take your dog’s regular food, toys and comforts to minimise stress. The Dog Friendly site and app lists 40,000 dog friendly businesses and places in the UK searchable by ‘nearest to you’ or by category, county or town to help you plan your trip in advance.

Even the best trained dog can be tempted by a deer, rabbit, fox or cat; the curiosity of the first time on a beach or in the snow, and can be spooked by loud noises or unusual temperature. Remember to be extra cautious with each new experience and ease them in gently. Your dog will appreciate the care and attention and will not ‘miss the excitement’ anywhere near as much as we humans imagine.

It is natural for dogs to be afraid of loud noises. The sounds trigger their nervous system, and they can become anxious, afraid, unsure, or shy. Running away from the noise is a survival mechanism. To your dog, the experience of fireworks is different than other loud natural noises, like thunder. They are closer to the ground, more vibrant, and are accompanied by sudden booms, flashes and burning smells. Remember fireworks can go off during other times of the year, such as Diwali, wedding receptions, Chinese New Year, etc.

Arrange to have your dog in a place where there won’t be loud fireworks displays — a friend or relative’s home or familiar day care. If it’s an unfamiliar place for your dog, take them there a few times before so that it won’t be a surprise.

The best way to prepare your dog for fireworks is to make sure they are comfortable with the sound in advance. While this is a simple process, it can take time – possibly three or four months of playing the recorded sound of fireworks for your dog at an increasingly louder volume before he eats, before a walk, before affection and play, and condition him by association to hear the sound and interpret it as something OK.

Remember this is a peak time for lost dogs so your contact details should be up to date in late October more than at any other time of the year.

Avoid kitchen nightmares. Always put food away when you have finished eating or preparing a meal. Put childproof locks on lower cabinet doors to prevent your dog from getting into food and toxic cleaners and other chemicals. Potentially harmful foods include avocados, chocolate, coffee, grapes, raisins, macadamia nuts, onions and alcoholic beverages.

To your dog many objects look like toys, especially if they are left alone at home for any period of time. If you want your remote, mobile, camera or shoes intact…put them out of harm’s way!

When training your dog make sure you include lost training where you ‘disappear’ out of sight and your dog has to find you on their own. Gradually increase the distance and time to a point you feel comfortable with and your dog is not too stressed. This will help you set boundaries beyond which your dog will look to return and you will soon sense if anything has gone wrong without having to constantly call them back.

Many well-meaning friends or family who are less experienced with dogs are a hazard especially during the holidays or party season. Remember to ‘train’ them what not to do and if you are in any doubt keep them apart. A misplaced sip of wine, chocolate or small object swallowed can be very distressing. All dogs should be carefully socialised with children.

Don’t make a medical mistake. Make sure all medicines (both prescription and over-the-counter) are locked away in a medicine cabinet, child-proof under-sink cabinet, or cupboard. If you carry medications in your handbag keep it somewhere high up. Keep soap and toothpaste out of reach, too. Many types of toothpaste contain the artificial sweetener Xylitol, which is very toxic to dogs. Weed out toxic plants. Common poisonous house plants include Cyclamen, Dracaena, Dieffenbachia, Ivy, Philodendron, Pothos, and Schefflera. Move toxic plants out of reach or to a place where your dog doesn’t have unsupervised access. Some plants cause only minor discomfort if ingested, while others can be deadly.

To bring your dog into or back into the UK you must get either an EU pet passport (for pets in an EU listed country) or a third country official veterinary certificate (for pets in other non-EU listed countries). This must show that your pet has been microchipped, vaccinated against rabies and satisfactorily blood tested as required.

In Great Britain, the passport is issued by a government-authorised vet. If your veterinary practice does not have a government-authorised vet, they should be able to tell you where the nearest one works. Your local Animal Health and Veterinary Laboratories Office can also provide these details.

For animals in other EU countries, a vet in that country will issue the passport.

When you go to get the passport take your dog, its vaccination record and if applicable, the blood test result. The documents must show your dog’s microchip number. Also take evidence of the date your dog was micro-chipped.

For advice on making sure your dog is ready to travel abroad, visit http://www.eurotunnel.com/PET-travelscheme-checklist